Asta Review

Overall rating: 89

Food rating: 92

Asta: Tasting menus with somewhat small portions of excellent food

We went to Asta this weekend with another couple. They had been their twice before, but it was our first time there.

Asta serves only tasting menus, and has a three course tasting for $45, a five course tasting for $70, and an eight course tasting for $95. There is also an optional course of foie gras for an additional $24. Wine pairings are available with the five and eight course options.

The restaurant is next to Deuxaves on Mass. Ave in Boston. It feels much less pretentious and "happening" than Deuxaves, and is a relatively small space but does not feel crowded. The wait staff were welcoming and reasonably helpful. The tables have drawers with silverware, so when courses and silverware are cleared, you replace forks, knives, and spoons from your drawer. Although it sounds kind of hokey, I thought this was a really nice touch.

We were given a welcome glass of sparkling wine. The amuse bouche was some duck liver and hearts on a tortilla and was delicious.

The three course menu actually had the foods that sounded best to both me and my wife, but did not seem like the best way to try a new and highly rated restaurant. Asta can handle different people at the table getting different numbers of courses, so we asked whether we could get one three course meal and one eight course meal with plans to share the dishes between us. The waiter told us that this would not work well because the eight course meal has such small portions that they are hard to share. This was a bit of foreshadowing of one of the main problems with Asta.

The actual options are, of course, quite limited, and so pure tasting menu restaurants, though interesting in theory ("let the chef just pick what he wants to serve"), aren't our favorite choices. Places with some a la carte options necessarily provide more flexibility if you're not thrilled with the tasting menu offerings.

In the end, I got the five course tasting menu and added the foie gras, and my wife got the three course tasting menu. We split the wine pairing for the five course menu.

The first course was octopus with a squid ink sauce that was very tasty. The three course meal had a salad with some biscuits and was excellent and substantially more food. The second course was a bowl of beans that was good but not great. The third course was broccoli prepared with a small amount of cheese and some horseradish, and this was superb -- probably the best course of the five course menu. The foie gras was served with some sweet potatoes and a coffee-based sauce. It was well prepared but not actually that tasty. The main course was this pieces of duck breast that was wonderfully prepared and delicious. The main course on the three course meal was chicken breast, and this was excellent and again quite a bit more food than the duck. The dessert was a hazelnut cake with a lightly poached pear that was very good. The dessert on the three course menu was a crepe with some berries that my wife thought was excellent.

The bread that came midway through the meal was good. The wines were unusual and mostly quite good.

Portions on the five course meal were small enough that I was still hungry at the end of the meal. The couple who was with us had had the eight course meal on one of their visits, and apparently there was very little food in a number of the courses. The amount of wine served as pairings was typically about half a glass, so our plan to share a tasting meant that my wife and I each had much less than two glasses of wine.

With the foie gras course, we were served a tumbler of some Trappist monk ale, and when the bill came it turned out that there was an unmentioned (on the menu or by the waiter) $8 charge for this. Apparently it was assumed that if you were having the wine paring that you would want this tiny non-wine paring with the foie gras. We mentioned this to our waiter, and one member of the group asked him to take this charge ($16, since two of us had gotten the foie gras) off the bill. He did this, but clearly wasn't pleased about it.

For me, this put a bit of a damper on the meal. I did not want to feel like we were being cheap or haggling over the cost, but I would expect a restaurant to mention that when you add a $24 item like the foie gras, that you are actually adding a $32 item if you happen to have picked a wine pairing. This is particularly the case given that I would not have chosen to have ale, and that $8 seemed like a lot for the tiny portion presented.

Overall, Asta is a very nice place to eat if you area okay with being constrained to a tasting menu. Much of the food was excellent and the wines were good. The prices are a bit high for the amount of food served, and my impression is that this becomes more of an issue as you go from three to five to eight courses, but this is a Boston restaurant on Mass. Ave., and the prices are not out of line for this quality of food.

For a place with only a tasting menu, I much preferred Asta to Journeyman.