Sunday, May 26, 2013

Hungry Mother Review

Overall rating: 93

Food rating: 95

Hungry Mother: Small menu of excellent food

Hungry Mother recently won the Globe Munch Madness. Hard to know how much that is influenced by restaurants promoting themselves, but Hungry Mother has great food and certainly deserves to be in the top tier of any ranking of Boston-area restaurants.

We've been there several times, and the food is generally wonderful. I've noticed a few people commenting that the corn bread isn't that great, and that was our experience as well, which is surprising since typically it's easy to make really tasty corn bread. That, though, isn't a great way to judge a restaurant as a whole. [Update from 6/2013 visit: the corn bread was spectacular, served with delicious sorghum butter. I asked whether the recipe had changed, and they said it hadn't. This corn bread was completely different from what we had eaten previously, so I'm not sure what happened -- perhaps we got some cornbread special by mistake. In any case, I take back my prior negative comments about the corn bread!]

Although the food is "Southern", it's not really similar to any particular cuisine I've eaten in the south or anywhere else. On our most recent visit, we got two appetizers. The first, mussels in a saffron aioli mustard sauce sauce was as good a preparation of mussels as I've ever eaten. The second was a special: an open faced smoked turkey sandwich with bacon that was also delicious. For a main course, we both got the rib eye steak with a romesco sauce and this, too, was wonderful and perfectly cooked medium rare as ordered. A couple of mixed drinks were nicely made as well.

For dessert, we got the buttermilk chess pie, which was good, and the chocolate and olive oil cake, which was okay but nothing special. Overall, the desserts were below the quality of the rest of the meal. We've had desserts at Hungry Mother on previous visits that were better, but overall desserts don't seem to be their strong suit.

The waitstaff was pleasant and efficient, and our waiter was helpful in making suggestions about various options. With some notice, the restaurant will pick up tickets for you for a movie at the Kendall Square Cinema. All in all a great place to have dinner in Cambridge.

Saturday, May 25, 2013

Bronwyn Review

Overall rating: 88

Food rating: 90

Bronwyn: Wonderful food, casual atmosphere

It took us an entire 11 days to make it to Bronwyn, the new restaurant from Tim and Bronwyn Wiechmann of T.W. Food. We love T.W., and so were both eagerly anticipating this new restaurant. We were also somewhat hesitant, as German cuisine, with a restaurant focused on beer and wurst, isn't really our typical preferred dining.

Where T.W. is understated, elegant, and a perfect place for a quiet date, Bronwyn early on a Saturday evening was energetic, loud, and filled with large groups, families with children, and couples. There is a bar as you come in with additional bar seating at an external window, and more seating in the bar area on tables reportedly made by Chef Tim Wiechmann. They plan to open an outdoor biergarten in the near future.

We sat in the restaurant area. Despite being newly opened and completely full, service was quick, friendly, and accurate with Bronwyn Wiechmann watching carefully to keep things running smoothly. Unlike T.W., there are drinks in addition to beer and wine, but the focus is clearly on German wines and beer. I got a rye-based cocktail (eins on their numbered list of five cocktails) that was excellent, and my wife got a Riesling Brut (I didn't know there were sparkling Rieslings) that was also very good.

There's been lots of buzz about Chef Wiechmann working on pretzels for the restaurant, so we ordered a pretzel rather than the assorted breads, which also sounded wonderful. The pretzel was enormous, wonderfully textured, and golden on the outside. It comes with a very spicy roasted apple mustard that was delicious. One pretzel was more than two of us could finish, though we came close.

For appetizers, we got the borscht, which they serve hot. The borscht was the first clear sign that while this is "German" cuisine, they are updating and putting their own stamp on traditional recipes. The borscht was served hot, but was not a typical hearty hot borscht. It was light and subtle and just wonderful. We also got the smoked kale pierogis served with an egg remoulade that was moderately spicy and perfectly complemented the pierogis.

For main dishes, my wife got the roast chicken served with grilled pineapple. I'm not sure how the chicken was prepared, but it had a soft texture unlike most roast chicken, and the flavor of the pineapple made for a really nice combination. I got the jägerschnitzel, made with veal and served with wild mushrooms, walnuts, and honey. This was a truly amazing dish -- as tasty as anything I've had at T.W. or anywhere. The thin pieces of pounded veal were perfectly cooked and browned, and the mushrooms and walnuts enhanced the flavors without overpowering them.

For dessert, we split a piece of "German chocolate cake" served with whipped cream. This wasn't what I would usually think of as German chocolate cake, and was instead a fairly dry cake without layering. It was very good, though we were quite full by that point.

Apparently part of the thought behind Brownyn is that it's a lower price point than T.W. Our meal came to about $120 before tip for two people, which was a perfectly reasonable price for the superb quality food, but not inexpensive. However, this is clearly a place you could go and order beer and appetizers with a group and have wonderful food and drink at more a moderate price than  T.W.

Overall, the food was wonderful. Whatever lingering concerns we had about "German cuisine" were laid to rest early in the meal and we loved the dinner. All that said, T.W. Food, with its relaxed quiet elegance, is much more our style for a date night out. Bronwyn intentionally has an almost rowdy feel to it, but clearly works well for families as well. We live too far from Bronwyn to stop in for drinks and appetizers, so it's a place we'll come back to more often with groups and with children than for a night out for two. We also love eating outdoors, and once the biergarten is open that could be a great way to enjoy this food. If you're looking for a place with spectacular food and a casual energetic atmosphere, this has to be one of the best options in the Boston area.

Thursday, May 23, 2013

Sycamore Review

Overall rating: 91

Food rating: 91

Sycamore: Good food (keeps getting better), excellent drinks

Update as of Winter 2016:

The trend has continued. Sycamore is really now an excellent restaurant. It is far superior to any of the other Newton or Waltham restaurants. A great place for a meal, or for a drink and appetizers at the bar.

Update as of Spring 2014:

We've been to Sycamore twice more quite recently, and on both visits the food was substantially improved. We were there last week, and started with drinks that were, as in the past, wonderful. I had a parsnip soup that was made with foie gras, and although hard to picture how that would work, it was subtle and delicious. I had a very good chicken for a main, and others at the table had a very good squid dish. We had sides of curried cauliflower and of broccoli with bread crumbs and cheese that were also  very good. The desserts were good but not amazing.

Most good restaurants, once they've plateaued after opening issues, seem to typically decline slowly over the years. Sycamore hasn't done that, and while still fairly pricey is now a reasonable value for that price. The drinks are better than almost anyplace around, and the food is now a cut above that of the other good restaurant in Newton Center, Farmstead Table.

Definitely worth a visit if you've never been there, or haven't been there recently.

Update as of Summer 2013:

We went to Sycamore for a second time, after going to an early movie in West Newton.  The restaurant was energetic and buzzing, and they were playing rock music loud enough that it was noticeable while talking.

Our waitress was again attentive and willing to make recommendations. On her advice we got a peach and herb appetizer made with pistachio butter that was delicious and interesting, though it failed to mention that it included prosciutto, and also a mussel ragout that was smokey and also delicious. The bread that came to the table was only average. The drinks were again excellent, different from what was offered on our last visit, and larger than the overly small drinks from that visit.

For a main course, I got bluefish that was prepared with andouille sausage. The waitress told me the bluefish was fresh, and it was certainly cooked perfectly, but the spicy sauce of the preparation, though tasty, overwhelmed the bluefish so that I'm not sure I would have noticed if it were older and fishy. My wife got the steak, which was good but nothing special. A side of roasted carrots was good.

The listed desserts didn't seem that interesting, so we walked up the street to JP Lick's (hard to go wrong there...).

Overall, again, the drinks were excellent and the food was good, though the appetizers were far better than on our last visit. The main dishes were a bit over and under seasoned, respectively, but tasty. The overall experience was probably about as good as you can get anywhere in Newton, but the price is relatively high.

At this price point there are restaurants reasonably nearby with at least as good food for less money, such as Strip T's in Watertown, and for a similar price there are restaurants with better food in Boston, Cambridge, and Somerville. The geographically closest good restaurant is Farmstead Table, which is quieter and simpler, but has similar quality food for less money. Sycamore, though, has as good or better mixed drinks as anyplace I've been in the Boston area.

Original review:

Sycamore has been getting a lot of buzz recently, including a positive review in the Globe, and with an unexpectedly free evening we decide to go there early. It is in Newton Center next to Bill's Pizza, and though small has a fair number of seats for couples and small parties, a small bar, and has a nice friendly feel.

Our waiter was attentive and knowledgeable and willing to make recommendations, which I always appreciate.

The list of cocktails had a number of unusual creations, and we got a drink special made with blood-orange vodka that was excellent, and one of their regular drinks, a "Persephone" that was made with tequila, egg whites, and, as expected given the name, pomegranate. It was also excellent though pink/purple enough in color that I wasn't sure I would want to be photographed drinking it. Our only complaint about both drinks was that they were relatively small.

We ordered two "snacks": the warm gougeres (they describe as "alpine cheese puffs") were not very interesting cheese puffs, but were fine. The salt cod with mashed potato was served with toasted bread and was quite tasty.

For an appetizer, we split the garlic soup, which included a 5-minute egg to be mixed in. This was a perfectly good soup but less interesting and less garlicky than it sounded.

For mains, we got the za'atar spiced chicken, which was perfectly cooked and tender but again not as flavorful or spicy as it sounded. We also got the squid with tagliatelle (made with squid ink) that also was tasty but not wonderful. For sides, we got cauliflower with raisins, pinenuts, and capers that was good, and asparagus with bacon that was very good.

We split the pot de creme dessert, which was good but pretty straightforward. It was served with peanut brittle.

One disappointment was that a couple of things I'd been planning to get based on the online menu weren't offered, including the seafood cassoulet entree and the chocolate-cranberry bread pudding dessert.

All in all, this was a good, though fairly expensive meal. The expense in part was because we got a second round of drinks because they were delicious but small.

Having Sycamore and Farmstead Table as new restaurants in Newton Center is really expanding the upscale food offerings in the area. Also, Sycamore is apparently open late for drinks, snacks, and desserts, which creates a nice option for going out after a movie at West Newton Cinema; there have been very few places open in Newton for a late drink, coffee, or dessert.

Sunday, May 19, 2013

Myers+Chang Review

Overall Rating: 89

Food rating: 86

Myers+Chang: Good food; fun place


I've been hearing about Myers+Chang for a while now, but hadn't gotten there. We had theater tickets last night and it seemed walkable from parking at the restaurant, so we gave it a try.

Myers+Chang is in the South End at the intersection of East Berkeley and Washington. They describe themselves as:
A funky indie diner setting offering Chef/Owner Joanne Chang and Executive Chef Karen Akunowicz's very personal interpretation of Chinese, Taiwanese, Thai, and Vietnamese specialties.
We walked in and were greeted with smiles and what felt like real welcomes from a waiter, the hostess, and a bartender and were taken quickly to our seats. The place does have a fun, happening feel to it, much like Towne seems to try for but without the fussiness and noise.

For drinks, we got a  blood orange margarita and a glass of wine, both good. We realized later on walking out how much alcohol was in the margarita.

The menu lists a fairly large number of items divided up into "dim sum", "...and then some", "dumplings", "noodles", and various other categories. We were told the food would come out as it was ready, in no particular order.

When we asked for advice, the waitress told us that she thought we should just go with our gut so that we had our own "Myers+Chang experience" rather than having someone else's. I don't personally worry a lot about having someone else's dining experience, but decided not to push the issue...

From the beginning part of the menu we ordered a carrot-ginger soup that was very good and pork and chive dumplings that were nice but nothing particularly special. From the rest of the menu we got the wok roasted mussels that were also very good but not unusual, a tasty tamarind-glazed hake, and grilled kalbi short ribs, that were wonderful. For dessert, we did get the waitress' help and she said that if we were chocolate lovers to get the flourless chocolate cake ("chocolate and cocoa nib terrine") that was excellent.

The above foods plus a glass of wine and two blood orange margaritas came to about $110 with tax.

I thought this was very good Chinese/Southern Asian food, but the tastes weren't particularly groundbreaking or amazing. Although the ingredients are better at Myers+Chang, the Asian tastes are more interesting at Strip T's. The price was quite reasonable for a restaurant you can eat at and walk to the theater district, but expensive if the comparison is to excellent Chinese food as you might get at Sichuan Gourmet in Framingham.

Overall, though, this is just a really fun restaurant. We enjoyed being there, and I would recommend it as a place for a group of friends or for a date. The food is fresh and well prepared and the atmosphere is great.

Friday, May 3, 2013

Strip T's Review

Overall rating: 87

Food rating: 90

Strip T's: A really unusual restaurant

Update as of Summer 2013:

I raised my ratings for Strip T's, as I think they've gotten more consistent, are using higher quality main ingredients, and the lunches have also gotten better. With this, the prices have gone up a bit, but overall they remain a pretty great value, even more so for lunch than for dinner. Strip T's has really moved into a group of our favorite restaurants for food. The overall dining experience still seems odd, and there are quieter more intimate places for a date or to hang out with friends, but in the Newton, Waltham, Watertown area, this really has become the restaurant with the best and most interesting food.

Original review:

We've been to Strip T's several times for dinner. I don't think I've ever been to a similar place. It's location and name suggest a dive sports bar, and the internal decoration suggests the same. There's a counter with some high stools for seating, and a tiny dining area with a few tables.

Everything about Strip T's suggests that if the food is any good, it should be good burgers served with good fries and onion rings and good beer. In reality, though, the food has an Asian flare, and even taking that into account the chef does all sorts of odd combinations of foods and tastes.

Mostly, this works extremely well. The food is generally really good for the Boston area. If there's better food in Watertown I haven't found it, and you'd probably have to head one town over to Waltham for the nearest better tasting food (at one of the two great Italian restaurants in Waltham, La Campania and Il Capriccio, both more expensive than Strip T's).

The banh mi, a Japanese vegetarian sandwich, is great. One night I had the roasted wild striped bass, which was a fairly small portion of fish. The fish itself was only okay, but the accompanying sauce, kohlrabi, clams, and roasted pistachios were wonderful. We also got a side dish of brussel sprouts (with sardines?!) that was great. For dessert, we had the goat's milk panna cotta, which was also great, but also a mocha chocolate cake that had little if any mocha flavor and just wasn't that tasty or interesting.

Most recently we went there for lunch, because we'd heard the burgers really were great and they don't serve them for dinner (and mostly don't serve the banh mi at dinner either). The burger is served with a miso/lemon aioli on a really nice and flavorful bun. I ordered mine medium rare, and it came medium well. Despite that, it was delicious.

We have the sense that the food at dinner gets better preparation than the food at lunch, but the lunch food is still very good. Also, the preparation and sauces at dinner sometimes seem better than the actual quality of the main ingredients, particularly when it comes to fish dishes.

I'm impressed by the number of favorable reviews on TripAdvisor (Zagat gives it a 21 for food, which is inappropriately low). The unexpected foods and odd taste combinations seem likely to not be what most people walking into an apparent dive bar in Watertown would be looking for. But if you like this sort of food and are looking for a chef who experiments and usually seems to succeed, this is a great place to eat and a great value.